If You’ve Ever Tried and Failed at Budgeting

Marci • February 3, 2020

This article was written by Sandi Martin from Spring Personal Finance and was originally published on Spring the Blog July 21st 2015, but it was so good I wanted to share it on my blog as well!

If you've ever tried and failed at budgeting, or if you've never tried at all because it sounds so hard and boring, this post is for you. Those of you with a budgeting system that works and that you possibly even love and want to have babies with are excused for the day. Those of you who are convinced that budgeting doesn't work are kindly asked to leave the room and do a little more thinking on that subject.

Okay, now that it's just us, let me tell you a secret: I've tried (and failed) at budgeting so many times that it would be embarrassing if I sincerely thought that it was easy (it isn't) and everyone else knew how to do it (they don't). The truth is, budgeting is hard and boring. Anyone who tells you different has a book to sell.

But it's still worth doing.

Budgeting is worth doing if you have limited income and lots of commitments. It's worth doing if you spend more than you make and have been for years. It's worth doing if you're naturally frugal, if you have joint accounts, if your income is hard to predict, or if you have more money than God.

The cloud of tv shows and books and blog posts (probably even this one) that swirls around the concept of budgeting obscures its value, which is:

To know how much we have available to spend right now, given the commitments we’ve made for the immediate future
To set aside money we don’t need now for things we know or think we’ll need in the future
To base our future spending decisions on a documented (rather than estimated) past
To know if a sudden or contemplated change to our income or expenses will be sustainable over the long term, and whether we should adjust our spending before it becomes a crisis

And finding a budgeting system that works for you, whatever your circumstances, is a matter of deciding why you're budgeting in the first place...and only then deciding on a system to do it.

Starting with a system without thinking about what it has to do for you is one of the two reasons people fail at budgeting. (The other reason is that they're using too many categories, btw.)

For example: You're self-employed, with irregular income, joint expenses with your spouse, and a little bit of debt you'd like to get out from under. A particularly painful month makes it very clear that you've got to do something about your money, so you sign up for Mint. You enthusiastically set up your accounts and create a budget, logging in on your cell phone throughout the day and categorizing transactions enthusiastically...until your bank balance doesn't quite match your Mint balance, and you realize that you forgot to budget enough for food but budgeted too much for shoes, and you were sick that week so you stopped checking whether Mint was categorizing your transactions properly, and now you've finally found a good deal on an almost-new freezer that you've been looking for for months on Kijiji and are flipping between your bank account and your Mint account trying to figure out if you can afford to take out the $400 to pay for it without throwing a major wrench into the next few weeks before your clients pay you, so...you think you've failed at budgeting.

Or: You and your partner work full-time at great-paying jobs, but have limited free time to do all of the million and one things you need and/or want to do, like spend time with your kids and cook at home. Every once in a while you think "we make lots of money...shouldn't we have more to show for it?", so one day you sign up for YNAB, take a few evenings to watch the videos, and begin assigning a job to every dollar you earn. You faithfully enter your transactions for a week, but realize your partner hasn't been, and - given the punishing deadlines at work - probably won't. You know you're really supposed to enter those purchases manually, and feel kind of guilty every time you download them from the bank, and then your team starts a really exciting project, your kids finish the school year, and it's not like you can't pay off your credit card bill every month, and - besides - you make lots of money, so...you think you've failed at budgeting.

You aren't wrong to get discouraged (although in each case you could conceivably have succeeded by dint of sheer bullheadedness). You're just using a budgeting system not particularly well-suited for your circumstances. You're spending your time solving a problem of lesser significance than your real problem. You're using a rolled-up newspaper to fight off a bear, or a bazooka to get that damned chipmunk off your lawn.

Those people that we dismissed earlier? The ones who were in love with their budgeting system? They're not us. What works for someone willing to helpfully share their opinion on reddit might not work for you for any number of very legitimate reasons.

So here's what I propose: before you read another budgeting book, or test-drive another system, think about the most important problem you're trying to solve. Is it really important to know how much you can spend now, and of lesser importance that you know how you spent last month? Are you trying to plan for the future and need to know what your normal and comfortable spending patterns are, but don't have any real reason to change them?

(Some people can't even answer this question right away. If you genuinely don't know where to start, don't sweat it. You'll get there.)

I've failed at budgeting in the past. Many long years of trial and error, punctuated by brief bursts of book-inspired inspiration and longer bursts of discouragement have taught me this: the books aren't necessarily wrong, anybody can make any budget system work (eventually), and chipmunks can be scared off with bazookas, but budgeting works best if you know why you're doing it in the first place, and only then choose a tool that's appropriate for the task.

< Older Post Newer Post >

Down Payment Options for Canadian Homebuyers

By Marci Deane • September 10, 2025

For most Canadians, the down payment is the biggest hurdle to homeownership. A down payment is the initial amount you contribute toward your property purchase, while the lender covers the rest through a mortgage. By law, Canadian lenders can only finance up to 95% of a property’s value, which means you’ll need at least 5% down to qualify. If you’re putting down less than 20%, your mortgage must be insured through one of Canada’s three default insurance providers— CMHC, Sagen (formerly Genworth), or Canada Guaranty . This insurance comes at a cost, but it can be rolled into your mortgage amount. The less you put down, the higher the premium. Since saving a down payment can feel overwhelming, it helps to know the different sources you can draw from. Here are the most common options available to Canadian homebuyers: 1. Savings & Personal Resources The most straightforward source is your own savings. Lenders will ask to see a 90-day history of the funds in your account. Any large deposits outside of regular payroll must be explained with documentation—such as the sale of a vehicle or a transfer from an investment account. This requirement isn’t just red tape; it’s part of Canada’s anti-money laundering rules. 2. Proceeds from the Sale of a Property If you’ve recently sold another home, you can use the proceeds as a down payment on your new purchase. Proof of the sale—such as the final statement of adjustments from your lawyer—will be required. 3. RRSP Home Buyers’ Plan (HBP) First-time buyers can withdraw up to $35,000 each (or $70,000 as a couple) from their RRSPs to put toward a down payment under the federal Home Buyers’ Plan . The funds are withdrawn tax-free, but they must be repaid over a 15-year period. This is a popular option for buyers who have been steadily contributing to their retirement savings. 4. Gifted Down Payment With today’s housing prices, many buyers turn to family for help. A parent or immediate family member can provide a gift that makes up part—or even all—of the required down payment. The lender will require a signed gift letter confirming that the money is a true gift (with no repayment expected) and proof that the funds have been deposited into your account. 5. Borrowed Down Payment In some cases, you may be able to borrow your down payment. This option is usually available only if you have strong credit and sufficient income. The payments on the borrowed funds are factored into your debt service ratios, so affordability is key. Lenders typically use 3% of the outstanding balance when calculating the additional payment. The Bottom Line A down payment doesn’t have to come from just one source—it can be a combination of savings, gifted funds, RRSPs, or other resources. What matters most is being able to show where the money came from and that it meets lender requirements. If you’d like to explore your options or learn how much you might qualify for, it’s never too early to start the conversation. Connect with us today—we’d be happy to help you create a plan and take the first steps toward homeownership.

The Source Of Your Downpayment Matters

By Marci Deane • September 3, 2025

If you’re looking to purchase a property, although you might not think it matters too much, the source of your downpayment means a great deal to the lender. Let’s discuss the lender requirements, what your downpayment tells the lender about your financial situation, a how downpayment helps establish the mortgage loan to value. Anti-money laundering Lenders care about your downpayment source because, legally, they have to. To prevent money laundering, lenders have to document the source of the downpayment on every home purchase. Acceptable forms of downpayment are money from your resources, borrowed funds through an insured program called the FlexDown, or money you receive as a gift from an immediate family member. To prove the funds are from your resources and not laundered money from the proceeds of crime, you’ll be required to provide bank statements showing the money has been in your account for at least 90 days or that you’ve accumulated the funds through payroll deposits or other acceptable means. Now, if you’re borrowing all or part of your downpayment, you’ll need to include the costs of carrying the payments on the borrowed downpayment in your debt service ratios. If you’re the recipient of a gift from a direct family member, you’ll need to provide a signed gift letter indicating that the funds are a true gift and have no schedule for repayment. From there, you’ll need to show the money deposit into your account. Financial suitability Lenders care about the source of the downpayment because it is an indicator that you are financially able to purchase the property. Showing the lender that your downpayment is coming from your resources is the best. This demonstrates that you have positive cash flow and that you’re able to save money and manage your finances in a way that indicates you’ll most likely make your mortgage payments on time. If your downpayment is borrowed or from a gift, there’s a chance that they’ll want to scrutinize the rest of your application more closely. The bigger your downpayment, the better, well, as far as the lender is concerned. The way they see it, there is a direct correlation between how much money you have as equity to the likelihood you will or won’t default on their mortgage. Essentially, the more equity you have, the less likely you will walk away from the mortgage, which lessens their risk. Downpayment establishes the loan to value (LTV) Thirdly, your downpayment establishes the loan to value ratio. The loan to value ratio or LTV is the percentage of the property’s value compared to the mortgage amount. In Canada, a lender cannot lend more than 95% of a property’s value. So, if you’re buying a home for $400k, the lender can lend $380k, and you’re responsible for coming up with 5%, $ 20k in this situation. But you might be asking yourself, how does the source of the downpayment impact LTV? Great question, and to answer this, we have to look at how to establish property value. Simply put, something is worth what someone is willing to pay for it and what someone is willing to sell it for. Of course, within reason, having no external factors coming into play. When dealing with real estate, an appraisal of the property will include comparisons of what other people have agreed to pay for similar properties in the past. You’ll often hear of situations where buyers and sellers try to inflate the sale price to help finalize the transaction artificially. Any scenario where the buyer isn’t coming up with all of the money for the downpayment, independent of the seller, impacts the LTV. All details of a real estate transaction purchase and sale have to be disclosed to the lender. If there’s any money transferring behind the scenes, this impacts the LTV, and the lender won’t proceed with financing. Non-disclosure to the lender is mortgage fraud. So there you have it; hopefully, this provides context to why lenders ask for documents to prove the source of your downpayment. If you’d like to talk about mortgage financing, please connect anytime; it would be a pleasure to work with you.

From Summer Shine to Fall Fine: Smart Home Projects to Tackle Before the First Frost

By Marci Deane • August 28, 2025

As patios wind down and pumpkin spice ramps up, fall is the perfect reset for your home—and your homeowner game plan. These quick wins boost comfort, curb appeal, and efficiency now, and set you up for a low-stress winter (and a strong spring market). 1) Safety & “silent leak” checks (Weekend-ready) Clean gutters & downspouts. Add leaf guards where trees overhang. Roof scan. Look for lifted shingles, cracked flashings, or moss. Seal the shell. Re-caulk window/door trim; replace weatherstripping. Test alarms. New batteries for smoke/CO detectors; add one near bedrooms. Why it matters: Prevent water intrusion and heat loss before storms roll in. 2) Heat smarter, not harder Furnace/boiler tune-up and filter change. Smart thermostat with schedules and geofencing. Draft hunt. Foam gaskets behind outlets, door sweeps on exterior doors. ROI tip: Efficiency upgrades lower monthly bills and can improve lender ratios if you’re eyeing a refinance later. 3) Fall-proof your yard (so spring you says “thanks”) Aerate + overseed + fall fertilize for thicker turf next year. Trim trees/shrubs away from siding and power lines. Mulch perennials and plant spring bulbs now. Shut off/bleed exterior taps and store hoses to avoid burst pipes. 4) Extend outdoor season (cozy edition) Portable fire pit or propane heater + layered blankets. Path/step lighting for darker evenings (solar or low-voltage). Weather-resistant storage for cushions/tools to preserve value. Neighborhood curb appeal: Warm lighting and tidy beds make a big first impression if you list in shoulder season. 5) Water management = winter peace of mind Re-grade low spots and add downspout extensions (2–3+ metres). Check sump pump (and backup). Look for efflorescence or damp corners in the basement. 6) Mini-renos that punch above their weight Entry/mudroom upgrade: hooks, bench, boot trays, closed storage. Laundry room tune-up: counter over machines, sorting bins, task lighting. Kitchen refresh: new hardware, tap, and under-cabinet lighting in one afternoon. Budget guide: Many of these land under a micro-reno budget—perfect for a modest line of credit. 7) Indoor air quality tune-up Deep clean vents and dryers (including the rigid duct). Add door mats (exterior + interior) to catch grit/salt. Houseplants or HEPA purifier for closed-window months. Fast Timeline (pin this to the fridge) Late August–September Gutters/downspouts, roof/caulking, HVAC service, lawn care, plant bulbs, exterior tap shut-off plan, path lighting. October Weatherstripping/sweeps, fire pit setup, organize mudroom/garage, test alarms, sump check, downspout extensions, dryer vent cleaning. Financing smarter: make your mortgage work for your home Annual mortgage check-in. As rates, income, and goals evolve, a quick review can free up cash flow or open options for a small fall project budget. HELOC vs. top-up refinance. For bite-size projects, a HELOC can be flexible. For bigger renos you plan to pay down, a top-up refi might make more sense. Bundle & prioritize. Knock out the high-impact, low-cost items first (air sealing, safety, water management) before the cosmetic upgrades. Not sure which route fits your fall plans? We’ll run the numbers and map the best financing path for your specific budget and goals. Quick Checklist (copy/paste) ☐ Clean gutters/downspouts; add guards ☐ Roof & flashing visual check ☐ Re-caulk, weatherstrip, add door sweeps ☐ HVAC service + new filter ☐ Aerate/overseed/fertilize; trim trees; plant bulbs ☐ Path & entry lighting ☐ Drain/bleed outdoor taps; store hoses ☐ Downspout extensions; sump test ☐ Dryer vent cleaning ☐ Mudroom/garage organization ☐ Schedule mortgage review / discuss HELOC vs refi Ready to make fall your low-stress season? Book a quick fall mortgage check-up—15 minutes to see if a small credit line or a tweak to your current mortgage could cover your priority projects without straining cash flow.